Black pine after care

(Brian) #1

I styled a large black pine, much like the large nursery one, I just have a couple questions as I haven’t done suck a large pine before.

The link above is the pine from my blog, and I have remove most the branches and have removed the top as well. I used the branch in the 4th picture down. I have wrapped it n’ such and bent it around 60 degrees, a major bend. There was no cracking that I could hear but I’m sure the cambium is slightly damaged. He are my questions

I have removed around 65% of all the branches but have left a few here at there, can I remove the rest and just keep what I want for the style?

It’s planted in a nursery container and is packed with roots, I don’t plan on repotting it this spring so am I able to cradle prune this year base on if it grows strongly?

How much protection do I need to give it? Should I protect it from freezeing temapture? Or should it just be fine?

Also this is a general question and pertains to this tree, due to the size and style a Shari and Jin will be needed to make it look good. While not common I will use preservers and such to keep it well maintained. When can this be done and does this need to be done in stages or all at once? The part past the live fine I can work any time but I mainly wondering about the area where the live vine is concerned. Or should I just let it die back naturally and just remove it then?

(Jonas Dupuich) #2

Hi Brian. Good questions - some thoughts:

  • removing 65% of the branches is about as much as I’d want to remove in a given season, especially if I’m not sure about the health of the tree or the quality of the soil/roots
  • cutting back a lot of foliage can trigger lots of new growth on the remaining branches; if all remaining branches are to be part of the final design, some may become overly vigorous
  • it’s not uncommon to repot when major work is done on the tree, and it could be an opportunity to get at least some of the roots in good soil
  • if repotting, I’d begin by removing the surface soil in search for the surface roots as it looks like the trunk is coming directly out of the soil, hiding the actual root-base
  • yes, protect recently wired trees from freezing temperatures
  • I’d follow the tree’s cue when it comes to deadwood; I typically don’t add deadwood to pines as they’re most prized for their bark

(Brian) #3

Here are the results of that work, sorry for the pics there not the best.

Only one branch is part of the final design, I also didn’t pull any needles on the tree. What I plan on is candle pruning and pulling needles come late spring/ early spring depending on growth. How would you handle this in terms of branches part of the design and branches that will be removed down the road?

Are you saying to repot in winter or the typical time in spring? I did remove the top layer of soil and found the nebari.

(Jonas Dupuich) #4

As for decandling, I’d consider doing it if the tree comes out really strong in spring. If the buds aren’t extraordinarily strong, I’d wait until the tree is stronger. When decandling, I’d likely decandle the whole tree as decandling part of the tree can significantly weaken the decandled area.

As for repotting, I’d repot now in mild climates (like the SF Bay Area) or in early spring in colder climates where there’s a greater chance of damage from frost.