Building boxes For Yamadori material


(Christopher J Parker) #1

Just wondering if anyone have any good plans for building boxes?

I just built one from cedar and has a tile base. After completion though I am concerned that a strong structure has created poor access.


(Jonas Dupuich) #2

Looks good - I’ve used similar designs. What’s the idea behind the tile base?

And can you say more about what kind of access are you referring to?


(Tim Shea ) #3

Assemble with " rust resistant coated Deck screws w/ a dab of wheel grease on the screw top for insurance ,where is the drainage ??? Lots is of drainage GOOD !!! Tim S


(Christopher J Parker) #4

As a carpenter I see a lot of rot on a daily basis. I have lots of surplus tiles so I thought the base could use it.

I am really into the concepts of upcycling, so I tend to design things with considerations to disassembly. That said as it is a deeper box having a pull away panel would assist repotting.


(Christopher J Parker) #5

And yes to drainage I used a diamond blade and cut 7-9 slits. As well drilled homes in the bottom board for greater air flow + drainage. hot dipped cedar tone screws, we’re also used predrilled to avoid splitting. I did consider beeswaxing the inside of the box, but thought it was overkill.


(Jonas Dupuich) #6

The removable panel is a good idea - the ability to disassemble a pot at repotting always comes in handy.

As for the tiles, it’ll be interesting to see how the roots respond, whether they coil more or less against that surface.


(Maurizio Leo) #7

Preventing rot with the tiles is a great idea – I guess it depends on how long you plan to keep the tree in there before repotting again.

I’m not an expert in building boxes and am hardly a carpenter, but this is how I devised a recent pot for a maple I acquired.

I used all redwood scraps from some boards I had lying around my garage from previously unfinished projects. I picked up some gutter guard metal mesh and stapled it to the bottom for drainage. I knew I’d be watering this maple quite a bit so I left a lot of drainage.

The bottom of the box has two redwood “feet” running orthogonal to the base to keep the box up off my bench so the water can drain freely. I used “outdoor treated” screws on the entire thing to prevent rust. I did not pre-drill the holes as this redwood was quite soft and I didn’t fear any splitting.

The two high pieces were just placed there and not secured until I found out if they would be needed. Turns out they were not needed as I was able to clean the roots enough so they would fit in the lower profile.

Pretty simple construction and it seems to be holding up well. I will evaluate the box next spring to determine if it’s holding up well enough to last another season.

Oh and redwood is incredibly light. That paired with my lava substrate I can lift this box no problem and move it around without issue.


(John) #8

Gutter guard. Good idea. I didn’t consider that one but think it would work very well. Thanks.


#9

This is my first time building grow boxes. I plan to use this on a larger deciduous the I acquired this year. But after seeing Maurizio’s box, I think I have left too much drainage space. Should I close up the bottom a bit more?


(Jonas Dupuich) #10

If the box will sit on a bench, you can’t have too much drainage. Just need a screen sturdy enough to hold the soil in place.


(Frank Corrigan) #11

Here is a pattern that i have been using to build boxes. The dimensions change for the material. 1*6 fence boards are useful as dimensional material. Some features that i find important are strips for lifting, strips for lifting base of the bench or ground. Drainage holes of adequate size (1") and holes placed for wiring in the tree. By overlapping the handles and the base strips it also serves to reinforce the box structure. I use a waterproof glue ( guerilla exterior) and a nail gun. For extra strength one can reinforce with deck screws. Here are some pictures of the recent size i built as grow boxes for young pines. The size is 11 inch by 11 inch interior with an internal depth of 4 1/2 inches. i would suggest cedar or pine if available. For Yamadori i often add base strips in the middle due to the size and also additional drainage holes. Increase the height for deeper root balls. It is often useful to add inside corner pieces to reinforce as the height increases. Hope the pictures help.


(Raymond Mack) #12

I build them form the cheapest 2 x 4’s firring strips from Home Depot. I construct the bottom like Maurizio’s box. Works fine, and cheap, but they are shot in about 2 to 3 years but fine for deciduous material.

I would use better wood for a conifer that would need to be in the box for a number of years.