That tree has fantastic potential.I think you are correct in not removing any trunks for a couple years, both to build health of tree, but you also need to let the tree ‘‘grow on you’’, so that the ‘‘right’’ future design will pop out as obvious after you have had time to get real familiar with this tree.
Personally, if this were mine, I would keep all three trunks, the 20 degree tilt is about right, maybe a little less, maybe a little more. New buds breaking lower on the trunks may become future primary and secondary branches. I would take this on a 7 to 10 year design plan, don’t rush it. You can not glue back a branch once removed. So go slow with the chopping until you are certain it is what you want.
About crossing branches - In my mind, the issue is trivial. I have seen many a good and even some masterpiece bonsai with crossing branches. The rule exists primarily for designing young material, as a thing to avoid. BUT it is NOT an absolute rule. Your tree has age to it, a natural wildness, the crossing branches may possibly become strengths, rather than flaws. It points to an uncontrived, naturalistic design. Especially if you are heading toward a naturalistic design rather than imitating a ‘‘formal’’ idealized tree, crossing branches in and of themselves are not an issue. See Arthur Joura’s wonderful blog pages where he discusses in a number of posts elements of a naturalistic design. It may help you ‘‘loosen up’’ and expand you thoughts to the possibilities for the future of your excellent pyracantha. http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t12772-american-bonsai-at-the-nc-arboretum
We are looking at 2 dimensional photos, not 3D. If the branches are not touching each other, but rather one is in front of the other, appearing to cross only from the ‘front’ view, it is not a bright line case of “got to cut if off”. A good bonsai has 3 dimensional depth, a branch in back creating depth may be used to advantage even if it appears to cross behind a main trunk from the front view. I downloaded an image or two, to see if I could do a virtual, and decided I wasn’t up to the task.You do have a number of ‘straight cylander’ branches that I would consider shortening to a point where a secondary branch is coming off it, to change direction, adding movement and taper. But the photos have too much foliage to clearly see what is happening. I think for the next couple years, if it were mine I would let lower secondary branches develop, keep buds that pop pretty much where ever they do if they are in the lower half of the tree. Perhaps I would prune back branch extensions in the upper part of the tree pretty hard to encourage more activity lower in the tree. Then 2 years from now decide how hard and how far to chop back the tall trunks. But I think my plans would always include the main trunks you have at the moment, even the left one. It is a nice unified clump, even though the left goes off wandering, it is a major part of the base of the other trunks.
So my advice, give the tree a couple years to grow on you, then the future design will pop out at you. If in two years the future design is not obvious, perhaps take it to a workshop with a visiting teacher. This is a nice tree, I’d love to have one like it in my collection.