Darkening ming aralia scars


(Corey Feuge) #1

I have a ming aralia that I have heavily pruned in order to achieve it’s shape. Unfortunately this has left scars on the trunk and branches. I need to know how to hide or incorporate these scars as I want this side of the tree to be the front. I have had just a little successs with wetting the scars with water every time I water the plant. Other than that I am fairly clueless as to what to due here because of a lack of techniques.IMG_4728


(Jonas Dupuich) #2

Not sure if there are any techniques that can help here. The main technique for avoiding scars like this is to not make such large cuts on aralia. Not many (any?) varieties can be pruned like this and end up healing well.


(Corey Feuge) #3

What about natural staining? I’ve heard of coffee grounds used to tint shari. Not sure how effective that would be here, but it’s worth a shot right?


(Corey Feuge) #4

I dyed it with india ink that they use for shari. This is the first coat.IMG_4729


(Corey Feuge) #5

2nd coat ansome dilution wth water IMG_4730


(Corey Feuge) #6

IMG_4731


(Charlie Mosse) #7

Ming Aralia “wood” is soft and prone to drying out and/or dying back a bit, especially in cool months which varies by location. I live inland about 15 mils from the coast of San Diego. Protecting from nights below 55-60 is important, below 50 can be critical. Cool days below 60 or so it is good to have them in doors. Do not keep them wet in the cold.

Hauling them inside almost daily in the cool times is a pain. Another member in the club got me onto this cheap but effective way to protect plants like Mings and Adeniums, and of course this helps with us bonsai enthusiasts obsession for propagating. So now I do the following: I have 3 - 16x24x13 66-Qt. ClearView Latch Storage Tote by Sterilite from Target for my needs. I use bottom heat from an incandescent rope light. LED does not provide enough heat. The containers are in the filtered shade of an evergreen tree. I put an inch of pumice in the bottom for moisture retention to increase the humidity during the day. Drill holes in the bottom of the box for watering directly in the box. The lid is in place but cracked open about inch at each end by sliding the lid a bit. I remove the lid or open the crack wider depending on the weather that day. If I am not around, I use about one inch of gap 24/7. I have had good luck with Juniper cuttings, Ficus cuttings, root damaged bonsai and others tidbits in the cool months. As the weather warms the lid gap is increased or if it gets very cold, I shut the lid. Be sure the Juniper cuttings are dry before closing the box. Warmer weather may require some additional shade, as will low sun angle.

Have not lost any Mings for years by keeping them warmer and I also keep them dryish, not but not too dry, and I do not haul them in and out of the house every day. Sometimes the containers are not deep enough. Getting creative making side height extensions works nicely.