Help Me & How to Train/Shape/Develop/Grow Baby Sapling JBPs into Niwaki?

Here’s a video of their current state: https://youtu.be/Nx5BvBfXWO8

Ideal goal and visualization - small Niwaki garden tree about 6’ tall (not a small bonsai, but also not a huge 15-25’+ Niwaki garden tree. Anywhere from 5-7’ would be ideal.

I have 4 baby JBPs, that are around 8-9yo now. When I received them (+2 years ago), they were about 12-16” tall, and pencil thick at most.
They seem healthy and vigorous (this year especially), and now about 1.25” thick at base.

I reduced last spring whorl candles into 2/bifurcation in May for the secondary branches and wired them horizontally (whorls had 6-12 candles each). The candles were already +6" long in May.
I also left a backup/insurance leader for all 4 of them (and also a few backup/insurance side-branches), because the current long leader’s internode is super long, leaving a large gap/space between its’ new upcoming whorl and the lower existing branches.

So, my current concern is the very large gap/space between the long leader’s newest whorl and the existing lower branches.
Should I keep it, or chop it off to replace it with my shorter backup/insurance leaders? Or just chop it shorter?
Will that long leader produce lower side-branches to fill in that very large space/gap?

Another concern is that my overall trunk curves, curve sizes, movements are maybe too small, unnoticeable and less-pronounced for a larger 6’ Niwaki garden tree (say, viewed from a distance). Perhaps I should make the movements and curves with much bigger radius and slants? Maybe even just clip&grow the leaders over a longer period of time to create larger radius curves and slants built with long, straight-sections of the trunk/leaders/internodes? (dunno if that made sense… maybe, visualize building/making a very large curve with a rigid, straight 12" ruler)

I noticed my 2 much older and bigger niwaki JBPs don’t have trunk-chops nor “kinks” (to make movements) and seem like they were just left to free-grow until desired size/height (very straight trunk sections/internodes), while the branches were trained horizontal during its’ free-growing. They do have a slight trunk-chop though; but only very high up, at the very top, before the crown, already 4-5’ above soil. I also noticed most garden niwaki I see at bonsai nurseries are like this too - no trunk-chops until the very very top and pretty straight trunk sections/internodes (almost like a formal upright… but still not perfectly/super straight from a distance/overall).

Anyways… are you supposed to just let the leader/trunk free-grow until desired tree-height (for garden tree/niwaki), or try to make trunk movements early-on like I am now? (while also training side-branches horizontal of course).

I re-bent them a bit today (actually, straightened them more, into a slant, but only to follow a much larger visualized curve).
Hope I’m doing the right thing.

Do you think these curves/bends/slants are prominent/aggressive/big enough for a 5-7’ niwaki?

Thanks for sharing the photos and video - they provide a clear view of the trees!

You put your finger on the top challenges with growing garden trees. Growing the trees quickly yields large internodes and whorls at each node. Growing the trees more slowly creates smaller gaps between branches but takes longer. If there’s no rush, slowing things down a bit can produce good results.

You’re right about the small curves in the branches too. As you suggested in the photos, the final curves will be pretty bit. Smaller undulations will add interest as the trunks makes big curves, but really small curves will disappear as the trunk thickens.

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