JBP 1 and 2 years old


(Shay Cohen) #1

I had an intense transplant session this weekend. 110 1Y old and 19 2Y old seedlings.
I noticed that this year’s batch grew very strong and some of them were bigger than the 2 year old. I had 2X50 seedlings in each colander and they were very close together. they seem to like it and I had no problem separating them.
Another thing is I didn’t remove the entire root when I created the cutting but did a cut at the first intersection. I was very pleased with the root spread I saw in most of them.
attaching some photos.


Regards,
Shay


(Jonas Dupuich) #2

Those look fantastic Shay - thanks for sharing!

Some of the tallest ones look large enough to wire, either now or maybe mid-season after the spring growth hardens off.

If you’re interested in making smaller trees, you can try cutting some back fairly low on the trunk to generate lower branches. Cutting right as they start growing in spring or mid-year would be good times to cut.


(Shay Cohen) #3

And cutting them this spring will not slow down their growth?
The ones that moved to a colander will not be repoted for 5 years or so right?


(Jonas Dupuich) #4

Cutting always slows growth, but it can be used to generate lower branches if desired. If you’re not looking to make small trees, there’s no need to cut.

I’d guess there will be another repot before 5 years are up, if only because the colanders often degrade after the 2nd year. I usually move the trees into larger colanders after a year or two. Alternatively, you can leave the trees in the small colander and place tree and pot in a larger colander for faster growth.


(bflin) #5

Hello Jonas,

For lower branching, how low do you suggest to cut? i.e. how far up from the roots for shohin or chuhin? Secondly, even if one were to grow a taller tree, would one try the same strategy so that the first branch won’t be a foot off the ground? Thanks!


(Jonas Dupuich) #6

@tinytree - you can figure out the answer in each case if you know what form the finished tree will take. Taking a wire and bending it in the shape of the trunk you’re looking to make can help. Once you have a rough idea of what the trunk will be like, identify points where it makes sense to have branches. Measuring from there, you’ll roughly know where you’ll need branches for large or small trees.

As for how low one can cut, it’s safe to cut where there are needles, but not below that.